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An afternoon in Belém

A short Tram 15 ride away to the southwest from Lisbon, Belém beckons. Two main sights draw the visitors in – the Jerónimos Monastery and the Tower of Belém. Some may say there’s a third attraction – the Pastéis de Belém where queue stretches beyond its front door with a length that rivals the monastery and the tower. Arriving late in the afternoon from Tomar, we skipped the pastry and visited the heritage sites. (There are quite a few museums around too but they don’t have quite the pull like these three.)

Belém

Belém

We visited on the first Sunday of the month, so both Tower of Belém and Jerónimos Monastery were free to enter. That being on the weekend, there were quite a lot of people visiting too, but without the delays caused by ticket purchase, we did get in reasonably quickly. A 10-minutes walk separate the two if you go along the seafront, passing the Monument to the Discoveries en route, with a view of the reduced-size Golden Gate Bridge (actually Ponte 25 de Abril) and Christ the Redeemer (known as Cristo Rei) in the horizon.

The Tower of Belém was constructed in the 1500 as a fortified tower on the bank of River Tagus, in a mix of Manueline and Moorish architectural styles. It has been used not only as a defense structure, but also as ceremonial gateway for great Portuguese maritime explorations, custom house and, of course, prison. Visitors going up and down the tower are required to heed electronically-timed movement indicators, otherwise you’re going to encounter human traffic blockade within the spiral stairs.

Belém

Belém

Belém

Belém

Belém

Belém

Belém

Belém

Belém

Belém

Belém

The Jerónimos Monastery is unsurprisingly a lot more spacious in comparison to the Tower of Belém. Today separated in several parts – apart from the church and the cloister, there are also two museums housed within the structure but with separate entrances – it was originally built to principally for the Hieronymites monks who pray for the King and the Portuguese navigators that set off to discover the world.

The building is simply magnificent. Principally Manueline in style, it is richly ornated with motifs referencing maritime ornaments such as twisted ropes and anchors, botanical elements, and the Order of Christ among others. Certain Gothic influence was definitely there: the great height of the church, ribbed vaults, tall stained glass windows and buttresses. At the square cloister, wide arches and traceries dominate, along Plateresque ornaments.

Belém

Belém

Belém

Belém

Belém

Belém

Belém

Belém

Belém

Belém

Belém

Belém

Belém

Belém

We also caught the start of a mass that evening, and stood near the entrance to observe the service discreetly. The organ played melodically and the accompanying singing was moving. Under this spiritual setting, it was the most beautiful mass that I’ve (sort of) attended – granted, I have not been to too many either -, even if I don’t understand a word of what the priest was saying.

Belém: photoset on Flickr



Category: Europe, Portugal, Travel

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2 scribbles & notes

  1. med says:

    Magnificent both inside and out…love the spy shot ;) imagine being hoisted up to sculpt the intricate archway and walls…wow!!!

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