My ignorance about the history of Denmark (and Scandinavian countries) shows. Sure, we have this notion of Viking Age that reigned supreme, and I don’t know about you, but I have embarassingly little knowledge of Danes’ cultural identity, their nation, their kinship, etc. We popped in to the National Museum of Denmark, hoping to learn a few more things, and then we were duly lured by the bright sunshine outside to leave… Terrible, I know.
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When you live in a city like Paris, spoilt for choice of museums that each has its own niche collection, it is actually refreshing to visit the Statens Museum for Kunst in Copenhagen, where seven hundred years of art can be found under one roof. Each room we stepped in has its broad theme, some pieces bearing familiar names while others form new lessons in (European) art for me. They made me yearn for some free time to follow an art history class…
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The oldest park in central Copenhagen, Rosenberg Castle Gardens – also known as the King’s Garden (Kongens Have) is a beautiful spot to leisurely stroll in, even on a day when the sun decided to stay hidden behind the layer of cloud. Tourists by the bus load were busy queueing up for the castle and trying to catch a glimpse of the royal crowns and whats not, but we just wanted to walk around the gardens.
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The Copenhagen City Hall started its life as a palace of the people, built by the skilful hands of the guilds who also funded its construction. It remains a palace of the people, today the seat of the Lord Mayor of Copenhagen and the municipal council, with its door open to all, even tourists who just wish to roam its halls randomly. Getting in is a very informal affair – just walk through the main entrance. (Nonetheless, understandably, not all areas are accessible at all time to everyone, since it is a workplace afterall and not an amusement park – that, is right across the street.)
Curious culture buff that we are, on finding out there are guided tours of the Rådhus and its tower – costing DKK 50 and DKK 30 respectively – J, F and I made a (small) beeline for them, and soaked up some interesting info shared by a staff who has worked for 15 years in the building and absolutely loves discovering, and uncovering, its secrets. Afterall, the architect responsible for its form and decor, Martin Nyrop, did not leave behind written legacy to describe his toil of 12 years, despite all the intricate details he incorporated to the structure.
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A short walk from Slotsholmen via Knippelsbro took us across to Christianshavn, a neighbourhood laced with canals and cobblestoned streets. For an area considered part of the city centre of a capital city, it has all the charm of the countryside by the sea. It oozes an unique vibe of cosyness, perhaps reflecting the philosphy of hygge that the Danes subscribe to. Or maybe it’s the waft of herbal joints from the freetown Christiania?
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You know we’ve got to talk about Danish food at some point, no?
Much as I wish I could report back on an experience chez Noma, that did not happen because it’s so freaking difficult to get a table, not to mention the risk of going into an overdraft given how puny my salary is by comparison to the living standard in Denmark. But, there were plenty of delicious things to eat at more wallet-friendly prices *phew*
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I know this is going to sound morbid, but if it is at all possible, I wouldn’t mind calling the Assistens Kirkegård or Bispebjerg Kirkegård my afterlife home. If only you’ve seen how beautiful, well-tended, serene and calming these cemeteries are, you’d wish for such a fine final resting spot too. The famous – and over-crowded – Père Lachaise in Paris would be envious of its Danish cousins.
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On our way from central Copenhagen to J’s place, we travelled past and overhead the S-Tog Ringline. On one side of the road, I noticed colourful structures and street art installation. Unfairly known as the ghetto, according to J, the neighbourhood had seen some riots in the past but the transformation that took place in recent years has brought it new prestige. J happily showed us around this multicultural and bright – and increasingly hipster-friendly – quarter.
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Goddag! F and I have been fortunate enough to spend a long weekend in Copenhagen, and to see our friend J who was also a fantastic host, proudly showing off what the Danish capital has to offer. In no time, he got us oriented well and one of the first places that we visited was the Christiansborg Tower – free to visit, by the way – that stands high over a former royal palace but is today the seat of the Danish Parliament as well as the Office of the Primer Minister and the Supreme Court. Parts of the palace remains in use by the monarchy.
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Despite my propensity to peek into churches, big or small, as I come across them, for some reason, I have never stepped into the Saint Étienne du Mont. Semi-hidden in the shadow of the Panthéon, the church, or rather its steps, is becoming pretty well-known after Gil set off in vintage car for his adventures in Midnight in Paris. Shall we pop over for a quick visit?
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